冰島冬季冰凍探險歸來(Come back from Iceland the frozen north)

前篇已說到此行前對冰島的一些印象及親身經歷,對冰島這個面積有3個台灣大人口只有30多萬的國家其實和台灣有非常多相似的地方,都是沒有豐富資源面積不大的地方,但是人民都是非常努力工作自力自強,但除此之外冰島卻有著我們沒有的美麗無比的景色,不論夏冬都呈現不同的風貌,冰島是歐洲大陸地形隆起的尖端部份,整個島是一座火山地貌,蘊藏豐富的地熱能源,因此鋁業成為冰島的重要外銷產業,冰島在不同季節都能呈現迷人的美麗景觀,特別是日出日落的大自然色彩和情境,經歷2008年的金融危機後這次再訪冰島,感受到他們已從困境中站起來,市面上到處可見的建築工事和擁擠的觀光客,在在顯示冰島已漸回復往日的繁華 。

The last blog on Jan.16,2016 has mentioned some impression and experience on the travel of Iceland, with this country which is 3 times bigger in area but the population are only 1.3% as Taiwan of 300 thousands, there are some similar faces with both of us, those are we don’t have enough resource and people work hard for their lives, but Iceland owns gorgeous landscape except, there are totally different faces of the landscape no matter in summer and winter in Iceland, Iceland is at the ridge of the European continent, the whole island is a volcano terrain, which rich in the underground heat, so the aluminum industry become one of their exports, there are unique view in the different seasons in Iceland specially the mood of colorful sunrise and sunset, this time I have seen the growth and come out of the financial dilemma since 2008 by busy constructions everywhere in Iceland, that I can see their past glory is coming back.

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1/500秒 (f/8), ISO200, 17mm(10-17mm)

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1/5秒 (f/18), ISO200, 30mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

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這次參加由澳洲攝影師Joshua Holko招集的旅遊攝影團團員共12人,國籍包括澳洲、英國、美國、德國、加拿大、香港、台灣等,由冰島當地的導遊兼駕駛Denial Bergemann帶領,探訪冰島冬季的一些有名攝影景點,包括冰島冬季結冰的海岸、夕陽景觀、冰河冰磚、半結冰狀態的瀑布,當然還有每年冬季在極地才能觀賞到的極光,頭尾9天的攝影行程團員們把握每個拍攝景點從容的進行拍攝工作,由於導遊領隊都會事先說明拍攝重點,的確提高拍攝效率不致造成過多的時間拖延,由於是小團體且都是具有經驗的攝影師,因此相互間的專業及默契使大部份攝影活動都能順暢盡興,在整個過程裡學習到攝影人對攝影的熱情和不畏勞苦的精神,使攝影如同是生活中的一部份,也在其中了解到每個人的不同器材,相互交流提升個人的攝影技巧是這次行程最大收穫,學習他人的取景構圖理念及拍攝手法都是此行珍貴的回憶。

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1/125秒 (f/8), ISO200, 35mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

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Our group led by the Australian awarded photographer Mr. Joshua Holko and experienced Iceland photographer Mr. Daniel Bergmann in a small group of 12 photographers, with nationality of Australia、Great Britain、USA、Germany、Canada、Hong Kong and Taiwan,  We visited many winter famous photography spots, including the frozen beaches、sunrise and sunset、glaciers lakes of iceberg、frozen waterfalls, of course we have seen the beautiful northern light activities, we took our time to shoot during the 9 days travel, we got some important key points before each shooting event, so the efficiency of photography shooting can be retained, as the member of the group are all experienced photographers, we shared each other with the experiences and equipment, and could enjoy each event, I could feel the strong passion and the spirit of hard job among all of us, looked like treating the photography as part of our living, we harvested by learning with one another and exchange the viewpoints of the advanced equipment, to learn the knowledge of the composition and shooting skill from the other people are the most precious memory.    

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0.6秒 (f/18), ISO100, 55mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

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0.8秒 (f/18), ISO100, 34mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

行程日誌:

第一天:早上約10點領隊到旅館接人,交通工具是一輛賓士(Benz)的中型越野車,可承載包括駕駛供14人,首站來到冰島南方的濱海小鎮Vik,拍  攝”三塊礁岩”的結冰海岸景色,吃過午飯後來到早上景點的另一端拍攝夕陽及岩岸下方的海邊巨浪拍打海岸的影像,陽光偶爾穿出低低的雲層,增添詭譎的天空景觀。

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第二天:早上起個大早8點出發去拍名為”Cascadas Skogafoss”的瀑布,山泉由超過百公尺以上的峭壁一洩而下壯觀不已,感嘆大自然的雄偉,領隊希望我們儘快拍完因為稍晚會有許多旅遊團來觀賞就無法有較乾淨的畫面,下午來到冰島最大而有名的”Jokulsarlon”冰河湖區拍攝冰磚,此處2008年來時由於是夏天天空景色豔麗多姿,但冬天氣象不穩定只偶爾有些許陽光,即使這樣也看到不少水鳥和海豹散佈在岸邊,隨後轉到冰河區的另一端,但天氣不佳無法拍攝從另一端呈現的景色,於是改到一冰河山頂的冰窖入內拍攝窖内的冰河紋路,渾然天成的結晶冰窖圖案讚嘆大自然的巧奪天工。

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4秒 (f/18), ISO200, 35mm(EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM)

第三天:今天氣候不佳下著小雨,早上到昨天下午的冰河區下游海邊,拍攝海浪拍打岸邊由長時間曝光產生的圖案,吃過午飯回到冰河入海口的海邊拍攝浮游在岸邊的大小冰磚,攝取冰磚的色彩紋路和海浪拍打時形成的巨浪,晚上依計劃是極光拍攝,但氣候實在太差晚上約11點在冰河區發現少許的極光,但雲層低無法看到它的舞動,於是領隊建議打道回府明日再作打算。

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1/4秒 (f/18), ISO200, 24mm(EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM)

第四天:由於昨晚回來的晚今天出發時間較晚約在10點左右,主要的行程是到”Hvannadalshnukun”火山國家公園的冰河區,拍攝冰河呈現的美麗色彩和紋路,下午由於氣候實在不好大部份時間只能在屋內整理影像檔案。

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0.6秒 (f/18), ISO100, 16mm(EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM)

第五天:這次我們到冰河的入海口海邊,拍攝沿岸大大小小的冰磚此時太陽間歇式的出現,在冰磚上反射出多彩的光芒,拍攝重點為海浪拍打冰磚後由長時間曝光形成退去時在岸邊留下的牛奶狀痕跡,海浪拍打冰磚形成的巨大浪花也頗為壯觀,下午繼續驅車往東岸,沿途拍攝了些山川景色,傍晚到達”Breithdalsvik”是明天早上要拍日出的地點。

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2.5秒 (f/18), ISO100, 24mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

第六天:早上大家起個大早,6:45出發約於天剛亮的7:30到達一佈滿小溪的山谷,大雪覆蓋的山頭在太陽漸漸上升時由冷峻白的色轉變為溫暖的橘紅色,拍攝時分別以廣角及望遠鏡頭拍攝太陽略過山頭的一刻,大地已完全明亮應該是要回去吃早餐的時刻了,吃過早餐約10:30出發前往一火山活動地區,到處冒著地底下噴出的熱氣,空氣中充滿刺鼻的硫磺氣味長時間曝光及漸層減光鏡拍攝陽光穿過冉冉升空的熱氣流頗為壯觀,晚上回到旅館在鄰近的湖邊,夕陽照射在部份結冰的湖面上,勾勒出美麗的雪白大地,空曠寧靜的氣息油然而生,即使天色已暗但低沉的光線經由雪白地面的反射使大地仍明亮不已。 

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4秒 (f/18), ISO100, 52mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

第七天:早上10點出發到冰島中北部最大的”神瀑布” (Godafoss),名稱的來源是冰島先民在決定要信仰基督後將先前信仰的其他諸神神像都丟進到瀑布裡而得名,此地由3個瀑布集合成一大型瀑布群,遠觀既已感覺其壯闊的氣勢,走近時一股強大水氣迎面而來,12米高落差的水流沖刷而下發出震耳欲聾的隆隆之聲,接近拍攝時須不斷擦拭鏡頭以防沾附水滴,陽光時而出現添加一些金黃色彩,拍攝時選擇不同的前景點綴影像,以魚眼鏡頭能輕易的將整個美景涵蓋其中更顯其雄美,吃過午飯返回旅館的沿途拍攝雪地的灌木景色,深色的灌木和白雪間形成光線的高反差,是黑白照片的最佳材料,半路巧遇一好奇的白馬靠近路邊充任攝影麻豆,晚飯過後天氣轉晴約9點天空開始陸續出現些跳躍帶點綠色的極光,由微弱漸漸明亮橫掃整個天際,在黑暗的天空中不斷閃爍時而微弱時而強烈,整個極光活動約3個小時左右,拍攝極光相機曝光的設定應將光圈打開至鏡頭的最大光圈如(f/2.8),並提高ISO值由800至1600(視光線強弱)甚至可達3200,至於快門由5到10秒為宜,當然最後還是須以拍攝當時的光線來調整。

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10秒 (f/2.8), ISO1600, 16mm(EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM)

 

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0.6秒 (f/18), ISO200, 50mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

第八天:今天啟程返回出發地雷克雅未克半島,氣象報告有強風警示,風速類似我們夏季的颱風因此攝影活動無法進行。

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1/125秒 (f/8), ISO400, 57mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

第九天:早上起來氣候仍不理想除了強風以外還夾著陣陣細雨,午餐後領隊規劃至半島海邊拍攝夕陽和長浪拍打海岸的景色,但氣候時晴時雨,拖到下午5點左右來到一處沿岸,但風速實在太大無法使用腳架只能手持拍攝,大浪強風迎面而來的水氣要拍攝清晰的影像幾乎不太可能,想想冬季的冰島除美麗的雪景外真的不是好得攝影季節。

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1/250秒 (f/7.1), ISO100, 66mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

第十天:整個冬季冰島攝影行程在今天結束,早上9點大家互道珍重各自返家。

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Trip diary:

Day one:  In the morning around 10 o’clock I was collected from the hotel, the transportation is a Mercedes medium vehicle with capacity of total 14 passengers, we started from Reykjavik drove to the east in the southern coast, arrived a port called “Vik”, we shot the famous the three rocks and the frozen beach. After lunch we went to the other side of the beach in the morning, to shoot the sunset and huge waves under the cliff, the sun sometimes showed its face through the clouds, which a treacherous mood aroused among clouds.

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1/400秒 (f/8), ISO100, 121mm(EF70-200mm f/4L USM)

Day two:  we got up early for the shooting of the “Cascadas Skogafoss” waterfall, which the water running swiftly down from over 60 meters cliff impacts the viewers, group leaders advised to move rapidly if we would like to shoot some clean waterfall images, because there can be many travel groups in front of the waterfall in anytime (and it was then). Afterwards we arrived the famous glaciers of Iceland, the “Jokulsarlon” lagoon, we would stay 3 nights in this area, we had some shoots of the icebergs along the lakes, there were some sea birds and seals spreading on the ice, the weather was getting unstable as we moved to the other side of the lagoon. We then went to an ice cave, when we crouched in, an ice roof formed by the blue frozen ice revealed, we shot some amazing detailed texture of the ice roof.

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1/6秒 (f/18), ISO100, 70mm(EF70-200mm f/4L USM)

Day three:  we came again to the lagoon but the weather again not stable with small rain, we went to the sea shore close to the lagoon and had some shoots of the wave, by a long exposure about 1-4 seconds of shutter speed, the wave slapped the icebergs turned beautify milky sheets prints on the sea shore. We planned to see the northern lights in the evening, but because of the heavy clouds there was a small aurora activities around mid night, so went back late with nothing.

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13秒 (f/18), ISO200, 28mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

Day four:  we started late this morning because of the late came back last evening, today we arrived the “Hvannadalshnukun” national park of volcano, the sun coming out now and then, we had shoots of the blue glacier rocks and closing shoot of the texture by telescope lens, because the bed weather we stayed in the hotel to manage our photos for the rest of the day.

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2.5秒 (f/18), ISO100, 27mm(EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM)

Day five:  we came again to the sea shore closing to the “Jokulsarlon” lagoon, there were several big or small icebergs spreading along the winter sea shore, again shot the long exposure images to express the beauty which has no replacement by nature. After lunch we kept east to the port town “Breithdalsvik” where we will shoot sunrise tomorrow morning. 

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1/80秒 (f/11), ISO400, 46mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

Day six:  In the morning we started at 6:45 before breakfast, drove about 40 minutes to a valley that scattered with lots of small streams, the morning just broken the peak of the mountains turning orange from the cold blue as the daylight brighter and brighter, we took pictures with both wide angle and tele lens, which gave different mood of the landscape. After the breakfast we moved to shoot the volcano sites which were full of the underground heats and the smell of sulphur in the air, to shoot with long exposure shutter, the heavy smoke soaring to the sky turned out to be a great view. When we came back to the hotel, the sunset view by the lake can’t be missed of its calm and beauty by long exposure, even the sky has been dark but the reflection of residual light against the snowing ground still kept it bright.

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4秒 (f/16), ISO100, 27mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

Day seven:  Today we started at 10:00 in the morning heading for the “Godafoss” waterfall, which is the most famous waterfall in Iceland, the name of the waterfall is according to the history, that the predecessor of the Icelander decided to have the religion of Christ, and threw the symbol of many other gods to the waterfall. The waterfall are composed by 3 sections, you could already feel its magnificent from far, when approaching close, we felt a huge air stream with water against, the water rumbling down from a height of 12 meters cliff, we should wipe the lens from time to time to have a clear image, the sun was shining occasionally provided a slice of gold light in the waterfall, I tried some fish-eye shoots gave a different prospect, the selection of the foreground should be a key in this landscape shooting. After lunch on the way back we took some images of the snow landscape with bushes, the dark color of the bush against the snow providing high contrast can be good for B&W photos, we met by chance a group of horses, a white one was curious of our presence and came approaching as our model. After dinner the sky getting clear, around 9:00 we found the aurora activities along the lakeside from dimming and getting brighter and brighter, a duration of about 3 hours till midnight, I set the exposure as f/2.8, ISO 800-1600(most of the time), shutter was from 5 to 10 seconds, but to adjust according to the brightness of the aurora is needed. 

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Day eight:  Today after breakfast we drove back to the Reykjavik peninsular, the weather forecasting warned a dangerous strong wind were presented, it was nearly not possible for a photography activities.

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1/125秒 (f/8), ISO400, 57mm(EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM)

Day nine:  The weather was not in our side again today, there were small raining except the strong wind. After lunch we have arrived a rock sea shore along the peninsula, no tripod possible with such a strong wind situation, we wanted to shoot some sunset landscape, but the water wetting the lens and nearly couldn’t get a clear images, may be you can enjoy more for a summer Iceland I thought. We had a great dinner of farewell afterwards.

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Day ten: the whole journey ended today and say good-bye with one another and hope to see again someday.

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1/800秒 (f/8), ISO400, 200mm(EF70-200mm f/4L USM)

攝影回顧:

  1. 1.      這次是冬季的旅行,在冰島遇到大部份是下雨的天氣,拍攝時應隨時注意保持相機乾燥及鏡頭乾淨防止雨滴沾附,相機包內要有毛巾及相機雨具。
  2. 此次拍攝到美麗的冰島極光但都是照片影像,如能同時以Gopro拍些縮時影像則更能觀賞到動態的極光之美。
  3. 由於攝影器材繁多搭機總是遭到航空公司的阻攔,具體的作法是盡量將容易因輕微碰撞即會損壞的配件,如機身鏡頭電腦等放入隨身登機包其他都托運。
  4. 拍攝風景,影像的銳利及景深非長重要,如以手持拍攝則須須犧牲部份景深不能採太小光圈,須以安全快門為重點,建議光圈在f/8~f11視現場狀況快門須以鏡頭焦段值為安全速度(如24-105mm焦段須1/125s以上),ISO值應以最低值如ISO100為主,但如須配合光圈及快門設定時可酌量調大,至於使用腳架則可採用大景深的光圈個人較喜好f/18而非f/22或以上是因為可有足夠的景深又保持光線色彩的精準。

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Photography review:

  1. This time I travel in winter Iceland, the weather were mostly not enjoyable, when I took pictures should always kept dry of the camera and lens, the towel and rain coat for camera are absolutely needed.
  2. We have had shoots of the spectacular aurora this time, but it’s pity that I forgot to power on the Gopro video camera to get some time-lapse films.
  3. The packing of the camera gears should be improved to deal with the interference of the air company, a rigid bag needed for some fragile gears when they are not allowed to be hand carried.
  4. The image sharpness and depth of field are the most important factors in the landscape photography, for hand held shooting then normally some depth of field might be scarified for the safety shutter speed for sharpness, my setting are based on the lens focal distance and choose the proper exposure (f stop), for example if I use 24-105mm wide angle lens the shutter speed of 1/125s should be the base, if I chose f8-f11 as the exposure, then the variable factor left is ISO, so I set a proper number for matching the f stop. As to use tripod, the high number f stop can be applied as to f/22 to get as much depth of field as you can, my choice of the f stop is f/18, for it can offer enough depth of field and also provides less chromatic aberration.