蒙古金鷹節慶典歸來(Back from the Mongolian Golden Eagle Festival 2018)

我自從離開工作退休以來每年安排的國外攝影旅遊活動都有一次短程是在亞洲,主要目標地是中國大陸北方,一直以來也都是參加香港攝影藝術協會所辦的攝影團活動,我喜歡他們的工作能力和敬業態度是一種儘可能滿足團員須求的精神,因此只要是符合我希望在中國大陸冬天北方的景點都已參加過,包括中國東北的哈爾濱東北虎、向海單頂鶴、吉林霧淞、長白山天池、牡丹江中國雪鄉、金山嶺長城等,其他如內蒙古壩上包括秋冬季不同景觀的奔馬、內蒙古納達木慶典等,這些景點都是風景生態攝影絕佳的題材,今年協會的林秋基先生主辦一場不同以往的蒙古金鷹節攝影團是不同於過往大陸的行程活動,吸引我走一趟蒙古金鵰獵人的打獵和遊牧民族草原生活的攝影

I plan every year for my photography tours after my retirement, and there is always one time travelling to the northern China, normally I join the group of “Hong Kong Art of Photography Association” for their expertise and inspiration in arranging the photography tour in China, I have nearly participated all of their Winter tour in Northern China, such as the wildlife shooting of Tigers、 Red dot crane winter landscapes the ancient Great Wall and Mongolian prairie etc., there are a lots of shooting topics around those tours, like wildlife horse galloping spectacular  Sunrise and Sunset landscape etc., this time the group leader Jacky Lim from the association organizes a tour to Mongolia for shooting the annual Golden Eagle Festival

旅程,行前期待的是一個不同以往中國大陸的嶄新行程,從申請簽證(台灣護照已很多年不須辦簽證了)、行程安排的確經歷了不少驚奇如班機、行李等等,在這距我們遙遠的國度裡體會不同種族的差異,享受到歡樂但也有許多不便和煩惱,正符合喜歡出外旅遊族群尋求的刺激感,整體來說是一次另人回憶的旅程感謝林秋基先生的辛勞。

 

1/5秒, (f/18), ISO100, 14mm (EF14mm f/2.8L II USM)

 held in the western province Bayan Olgii,  it is a new kind of tour to me other than the used China ones, I need to apply an entry visa (normally we don’t need applying visa to many places for sometimes) and plan a flight via Hong Kong to Mongolia, then the domestic flight with luggage weight limits etc., quiet a different from the old ones, but expediting the strange country normally attracting most of the traveling photpgraphers, anyway, I enjoyed a fun and thrilled journey stayed in the nomadic yurt and got along with those lovely inhabitants.

1/160秒, (f/11), ISO200, 35mm (EF35mm f/1.4L USM)

旅程簡述因為是首次的蒙古(外蒙古)行所有手續不同於以往的中國大陸,從申請簽證購買機票等等都是新的體驗,去蒙古只能搭蒙古航空班機,在烏蘭巴托(Ulaanbaatar)機場也沒看到其他航空公司的飛機,心理的感覺新奇期待也有一絲不確定,尤其第二天須從烏蘭巴托搭國內班機到金鷹節慶典的地點巴顏烏拉蓋(Bayan Olgii),此地已是蒙古最西邊的省份與哈薩克為鄰,但是現在回顧整個行程是順利沒什麼麻煩,蒙古雖然不是很現代化的國家,但行程沿路上可體會的到對觀光業的重視,因為觀光產業是利多本輕的投資,即使在偏遠的中亞地區也在蓬勃發展是值得我們參考,值得一提的是國內班機的行李重量限制而須付額外的費用,雖然不是很多可以但看出相關單位利用慶典吸引各地觀光客來賺錢的用心,我因為攝影器材的超重共付了約2千台幣。

由於第二天國內班機無預警取消只能在隔天一大早搭紅眼班機前往,飛了約3個小時於第二天慶典開始前到達會場,領隊Jacky終於可鬆了口氣不負大家參加這次慶典旅程的期待,在早上約10點慶典開始,由蒙古獵人金鵰從高空獵盤旋而下獵取獵物的比賽開始,下午進行獵人騎馬競逐和獵人搶羊角力比賽,對我們觀光客來說或許看不出門道但場面熱鬧有趣及珍貴鏡頭的攝取卻是豐富的。

慶典後的幾天行程領對安排在草原與牧民相處,體驗遊牧族人在草原上的生活,對我這群生活在現代化城市生活的人來說是新奇好玩,但也是不小的挑戰,如起居、清潔、三餐等都是步步驚奇的,一到夜晚四週靜寂伸手不見五指,只有滿天星辰散發出如LED般的點點的星光,身處其中感受到天人合一的心境,這也反應出草原的人們(特別是兒童)的純真和自然,牧民對外地來的人展現的是自然流露,非常直接沒有動機的,對我們城市來的人一時還真不太能適應。

蒙古包是典型的草原牧民居所據說已有3千年以上的歷史,圓型的結構再鋪上毛氈和帆布既防風又保暖,冬天在蒙古包中央的火爐燃燒牛糞取暖,它的組裝拆卸簡單快速適合遊牧民族逐水草而居的生活形態,以現代人的說法是非常綠能的住所。

4天3夜的草原生活白天領隊安排金鷹獵人的馬上工夫及金鷹獵取獵物表演,晚上有草原無光害的滿天星辰,讓我們儘情的觀賞拍攝星軌、銀河等的自然美景,大家都感受到新奇充實、遺世獨立,反而不覺的在生活上的不便,離別時依依不捨的表情都掛在每個人的臉上。

1/320秒, (f/11), ISO400, 116mm (EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM)

Tour itinerary For me, it is the first time to visit Mongolia, so there was a little wonder about the procedure for the travel, there are some surprising happened from the visa applying to the flight booking etc,. the only flight is Mongolia Airlines, when we arrived the capital city Ulaanbaatar, found out there are  no other airlines in the airport, and the second day we should fly to Bayan Olgii , the destination of the tour by the domestic flight, which located along the border with the Kazakh, although there are some wonder in mind along the way, but it is a fine journey,  Mongolia is not a much developed country but the authority shows quite an ambition in the tourism business even in that deserted province, the luggage weight policy is some kind of amazing that total weight limited to 15Kg, for a photography group nearly all of us should pay for extra weights, this is a good policy for them to earn extra income from the Festival, I pay about 70USD.

when we arrived Ulaanbaatar , group leader Jacky announced that the domestic flight cancelled, so we could only leave for Bayan Olgii on the third day very early in the morning, luckily we caught up the second day of the festival, the festival started with the hunting contest by the hunter’s eagle-hawk,  another 2 programs in the afternoon were the hunter’s horse riding show and the prey fighting contests, for most of us the show were interesting and enjoyed shooting a lots of photos but not very much realized the whole festival or their history.

After the festival we went to stay with the nomadic tribe people for the rest of the itinerary, for us who come from the modern cities are curious on nearly everything such as living、foodssanitation etc., in the nearly pure black ambient at night the sky turns out as a huge LED screen by countless stars, making you indulged in the profound universe physically and mentally, the genuine character of the inhabitants are quite straight forward without motive to receive the foreigners.

The Mongolian Ger is the typical residence for the Mongolian people, which has been over 3000 years old histry, the round wood structure wrapped with sheep felt keeping warm in the Winter and also against the strong wind, the Mongolian Ger are easily been disassembled when the inhabitant want to move to another location, so it is also a very Eco friendly accommodation.

We stayed in the prairies for 4 days and 3 night, among them the group leader Jacky arranged the shooting of the show of  hunters and their eagle-hawk in the daytime, and at night we enjoyed the shooting of star track and the Milky Way, besides, there were also a lots of Sunrise and Sunset landscape shooting, with the full program we even forgot the inconvenient in the everyday living, everybody have had a hard time to say goodbye to those tribe friends in the last day morning.

1/30秒, (f/25), ISO100, 200mm (EF200-400mm f/4L IS USM)

攝影器材(Gears)

相機(Camera):Canon 1Dx MK II, 5D MK III

鏡頭(Lens):

  1. 16-35mm/f2.8
  2. 70-200mm/f4
  3. 200-400mm/f4+1.4x extender
  4. Canon 1.4x extender
  5. Canon 2x extender

腳架(Tripod):Gitzo GK2580 traveler tripod

附件(Others):腳架、背包

  1. Gitzo G2272M,3D low profile Head
  2. 4th Generation M-3.6 Mongoose Action Head for Larger Lenses
  3. Gura Gear Bataflae 26L Backpack (Black)

1/200秒, (f/18), ISO400, 35mm (EF35mm f/1.4L USM)

1/1250秒, (f/11), ISO800, 392mm (EF200-400mm f/4L IS USM +1.4x III)

攝影內容  這次攝影旅遊拍攝的主題是蒙古金鷹節的慶典表演和草原的人文影像,另外草原上無垠的山川風光也有很多景點,我帶的鏡頭包括要拍攝人文的Canon 100-400mm/f4+1.4xExtender生態專用變焦鏡和拍風景的35mm/f1.4廣角鏡,另外帶一隻14mm/f2.8超廣角適合星軌的拍攝,拍攝老鷹獵取獵物使用canon 1d mk2的高速快門來捕捉老鷹遨翔,體會到金鵰飛翔的速度即使能每秒拍14張的相機也不容易拍攝到銳利的影像,快門設定由1/1600s1/2000s視環境光線的明暗調整,光圈取f/5.6-f/8之間,ISO值配合光線及快門的須要取400-800之間,另外人文方面是拍攝一些牧民的生活和人像,拍攝時要注意陽光的出沒和方向,我大多採逆光或側逆光同時觀察陰影的形成來增加影像的立體感,如臉部、支體等動作,為能使背景模糊凸顯影像的主體,光圈大多取f/4-f/5.6鏡頭用70-200mm焦段。

這次值得一提的是無光害的蒙古草原是拍攝星軌及銀河的絕佳場所,利用北斗七星來鎖定正北方,以鏡頭對準北極星可攝取星光運行的同心圓星軌,相機的設定由於是夜景一般光圈放到最大如f/2.8ISO依現場光線可取3200-6400之間,快門則是比較有爭議的選擇,網路上有一“400”手則的說法可用於一般狀況即:400/鏡頭焦段 (16mm 鏡頭, 400/16=25)以此類推,最後白平衡視光線(如有無月光等)3100-3900k之間。

10秒, (f/1.4), ISO3200, 35mm (EF35mm f/1.4L USM)

Shooting contentsI set the shooting topics this time with first the festival, the second is the wildlife and people, and finally the landscape of the broad prairies, I use Canon 100-400mm/f4+1.4xExtender for shooting wildlife and  portrait of the tribe people, a 35mm wide angle is for the landscape, finally a 14mm super wide angle lens for the star track, for catching the shoot of the hunters’ eagle-hawk, I use the fastest shutter speed of canon 1d mk2 camera, but the blink speed of the eagle-hawk were so fast, even 14 frames per second won’t be easy to get a  sharp image, the exposure are around f/5.6-f/8, I set the shutter speed at least 1/1600s, in this case even 1/2000s should be needed when the ambient light is allowed, then set ISO accordingly between 400-800, I use 70-200mm/f4 for some portrait of the tribe people specially the children, setting is as f/4-f/5.6 ISO 200, I normally take the light at the back and side of the subjects, to get the shadow forming more 3D in the images, with f/4 or f/5.6 the subjects can be pop out from the background.

The highlight of shooting are the shooting of the star track and the galaxy at night, taking the advantage of the nearly pure black ambient we can very easy to find the direction of the Big Dipper, aiming the camera to the Dipper can get a concentric circles  star track image, I set the exposure wide open as f/2.8, the ISO set from 3200-6400 according to how bright the stars’ lighting, as to the shutter speed, it depends upon how you want the star track image turn out to be, there is a ‘400’ rule saying from the sites, that is 400 divided by the lens focal length (for example, if using 16mm lens then the shutter speed equals to 400/16=25 seconds), finally the white balance set between 3100-3900K.

1/1600秒, (f/8), ISO400, 506mm (EF200-400mm f/4L IS USM +1.4x III)

行程高潮  行程中的趣事是蒙古的國內線班機的行李重量限制只有15公斤,但我們是攝影團體可想而知重量是可觀的,當局利用金鷹節慶的活動確實大賺觀光財,國內線機票價格甚至比香港到烏蘭巴托的國際線還高,可見如今世界各地觀光都是當政者不能忽視的產業。

無邊的廣大蒙古草原入夜後舉頭就可看到閃爍的星光,密密麻麻的一亮一暗酷似掛在天空的聖誕燈,以相機長時間曝光可拍攝浩瀚的銀河美景。

1/1600秒, (f/8), ISO1000, 784mm (EF200-400mm f/4L IS USM +1.4x III)

The highlightsFirst is the flight and over-weight charges of the domestic flight, the cost of flight from Ulaanbaatar to Bayan Olgii is even more expensive than the one from Hong Kong to Ulaanbaatar, and the weight limits of luggage is just 15Kg, for a photography group it is for sure an extra costs, this reflects that the Mongolian authority’s intention for increasing their income from the tourism, which has been also noticed in many countries for increasing the foreign exchanges.

Second is in the broad Mongolian prairies at night, the dancing star lighting hanging on the immense sky offers an incredible night photography on the star track and the Milky Way with the foreground of Mongolian Ger.

1/30秒, (f/16), ISO100, 127mm (EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM)

心得 在草原上生活回歸自然對都市人來說要能適應生活上各種不同的情況,例如清潔、排泄、食物、飲水等,應該要根據個人的承受能力而不要超出身體能負荷的範圍,因此行前領隊帶大家去超市買些生活用品以防不時之須。

1/640秒, (f/14), ISO400, 35mm (EF35mm f/1.4L USM)

Something inspired:Although we have had a great time staying in the non-frontier prairies, but the life there is just not the same as we stay in the city, so the group leader Jacky suggests that we should purchase some supplies before going there, such as drinking water、 instant foods sanitation stuffs etc.